Travelling with children can sometimes leave you with a list of things your didn't do rather than what you did!
And so we set off in search of the Casa di Giulietta. Looking for a weekend away around Valentines and adding Verona into our itinerary, a visit to very the balcony where the legendary exchange between Romeo and Juliet is thought to have taken place was almost obligatory! The origins of the love story that we know so well was first written in 1530 by Luigi da Porto and the balcony in this story is found in Verona. The lust, the longing. Romeo promises that ‘With love’s light wings did I o’erperch these walls, For stony limits cannot hold love out.’
We await to see if we will have the same determination as Romeo, on this city break with two small children by our side.
At around 10 in the morning we left our accommodation to the East of the historical centre and passed in front of a well preserved 11th century Romanesque church, the Basilica San Zeno. From here we arrived into the tranquillity of a pedestrian area called Piazza Corrubio. Immediately catching my eye was a bejewelling green burst rising out from a balcony of a low terraced building lining the Piazza. Only a few meters long in dimension, the balcony was lined with mix matched pots of succulents, geraniums and hydrangeas. Despite it’s proportions the space had been had been nurtured into a full verdant canopy that sang out to us in the bright winter sun. Directly underneath this symphony of life perched a young girl on the handle bars of a bicycle. Gazing through her sunglasses casually away as her nonno laughed into a large open window. Inside was a bar table with two glasses of chilled white wine (a morning beverage not out of the ordinary in northern parts of Italy) and two men who had spotted their friend out on errands with his granddaughter.
Leisurely they chatted as we wandered past this theatrical moment that we had stumbled upon.
Another 500 or so meters and we arrived to walk along Rigaste San Zeno, this is an elevated tree lined path along the emerald river Adige. Here you find sweeping views of the riverbanks and the fortified bridge Ponte del Castelvecchio and it’s frilly crenelations that once kept Verona safe. The children ran along here with the freedom from dangers from passing cars. The sound of the rushing river and the ancient arches of the bridge was, serene, peace only broken by our sons pretending to be two velociraptors on the hunt. If the beautiful view along here doesn’t steal you away for too long you will arrive in the lively historical centre in no time at all and even closer to the Casa di Giulietta.
Making our way through the tall streets we discovered more balconies. Any which one would be a fitting protagonist in one of the most famous love stories ever written. Some had patterned iron railing with elegant curves, some were stocky looking, with elaborate plinths underneath to support them. Slatted shutters, aged and perfectly ragged. Some balconies remained proudly naked, their architectural shadows stretching away from them while others flung their long tendrils of vines alluringly towards the streets below. Were they all jostling for attention? Jealously competing with the one balcony we all came to see?
We finally arrived to an archway where groups of people gathered. Looking through gaps between the huddle of shoulders. I caught a corner glimpse of the honey-hued stone of Giulietta’s balcony! But, wait. It was the exit. The hunt was not yet over.
Overhearing the guard shouting that the entrance is around to your right and the second door along; we started to move away. By now though the kids were feeling the weight of their feet, they started to drag. ‘Come on guys, we are nearly there’ I cheer.
We made it a little further to the edge of Piazza delle Erbe, trying to soaking up the atmosphere and while being aware of the growing resistance of the children. ‘Mama, I need a wee’.
Of course, we had been walking for a couple of hours by now, luckily a toilet was close by in Cortille del Tribunale. Upon seeing my son dancing on the spot, the assistant didn’t even take the 70 cent fee and let him pass immediately through.
All done and ready to recommence and my youngest says ‘Mama, I’m hungry!’
The balcony of Giulietta was edging further away.
On the corner of Piazza Tribunale a gelateria stood, welcoming. Choosing Fior di Latte and Stracciatella, as the kids ate contentedly I stole a moment to gaze up at the 84 meter Lamberti Tower that overlooks the city, it’s host flock of swallows darting between it’s bells, chattering loudly. The ice-creams drip and brush against the bulky winter coats of our young children. Here we remained a little longer standing shoulder to shoulder with the statue of Dante and watched the elegantly dressed locals passing in front of us. Maybe it was a good moment to end the day on. Despite not making it to our destination, we were satisfied nonetheless with our afternoon lost in the beauty of Verona. We started to move towards the bus stop at Ponte Navi, dropping into a tabacchi for a couple of tickets on Via Cappello along the way. On the short bus journey back we saw more historical buildings that this time remain unexplored. But a few hours spent meandering through the streets and soaking up the atmosphere was just as successful as ticking a place off a list.