After spending a Halloween weekend there with my family in 2022 I have been eager to return to discover more of this beautiful place. This time I left the children at home and I revisited Spoleto for the day with a good friend with the intention of getting lost in the the magic of the place.
From our starting point at Roma Tiburtina Station, the 1 hour 20 direct train cost €20 return per person and the service runs throughout the day so we felt felt that we had full flexibility.
The train passed along rivers and farmland as we left Lazio and passed into Umbria, flanked with green as we passed through a deep gorge. Our ears popped as we went through the tunnels.
Arriving in the Station, there is a short walk to the historical centre where the pedestrian streets wind and criss-cross over the hill on which Spoleto was originally built as an Etruscan settlement, inhabited by the Romans and built up further in the medieval era when the cathedral and monasteries were built.
No. 1 : Food
Umbria is loved for it’s traditional hearty food and local wine. On this trip we found a very decadent ice-cream shop.
On the corner of Piazza del Mercato sits Crispini, a gelateria awarded world champion in 2017 for their pistachio ice-cream. Alessandro takes pride in the ingredients he uses and his creative recipes. There is the opportunity to try something new and maybe even unexpected such as the ‘olive oil and Montefalco red wine’ or the ‘salted butter and caramel’. The flavours were complex, the ice-cream was creamy and not too sweet, and served on a true waffle cone. The gelateria is on the edge of a small yet busy piazza with bars and benches; benches that we noticed too late after sitting uncomfortably on the thin and angular railing of the water fountain! But at the time we were too spellbound by the ice-cream to notice.
On a previous visit to Spoleto we lunched at Ristorante Pecchiarda, a restaurant that has been in the same family for 100 years. A rustic setting in a huge courtyard area, tables surrounded by vines and fruit trees, and the smell of a wood fired oven. We arrived early for lunch, and sitting at our table we watched an old man carrying an armful of rosemary and dropping it off at the kitchen door. The food is authentic and from traditional Umbrian recipes with meat dishes and plenty of vegetable and legume dishes too.
No. 2 UNESCO world heritage
The rich history of Spoleto has gifted the town with historic sites and monuments that will capture your imagination. Just walking around the streets you feel emersed in history, surrounded by medieval buildings, churches and many museums. The list includes The National Archeological Museum, Rocca Albornaz, a Roman house and many more that you can discover here The best advice for someone looking to visit multiple museums is to invest in the SpoletoCard. For €12 you will have access to all of the 6 museums and art galleries, this saves you money and gives you the freedom to pass at leisure through all of them and relish in the bits that interest you the most.
At the very heart of the town there is a long sloping piazza which tips towards the 12-13thcentury Duomo Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta. This piazza is a place to feel a sense of awe. A golden mosaic on the front facade shimmers and throws the sun light out into the piazza, as you pass though the arches to the entrance the intricate details carved into the stone can be seen.
No. 3 : Shop Boutique
Spoleto is a destination for Italians and the shops reflect this in their quality and style. You don’t need to worry about tourist traps here! The main street in the historical centre is Corso Giuseppe Garibaldi. This is a pedestrian area with a variety of boutique clothing, shoes and jewellery shops that offer a taste of the iconic Italian style. During our visit we walked up the main street just as everything started to open for the day. We passed a group of the shop owners, closely, they stood together engaging in their morning chatter. Each of the windows are curated and the shops offer unique and quality pieces.
No. 4 Nature
Next to Rocca Albornoziana a defensive 15th century fortress castle there is an archway that leads to Via del Ponte. If you follow this path you will discover an incredible panoramic view of the surrounding valley and the see the bridge ‘Ponte delle Torri’. An impressive 80 meter tall bridge that stretches out like an arm, grabbing onto the silent forest on the other side.
A series of escalators are available to aid people to arrive to the top or to get down from the hill, the entrance to this can be found behind the cathedral.
Walking around this panoramic circuit the countryside sweeps down steeply to one side and a high rocky wall sits on the other. Vibrant moss softening the surface of the rock face and rounding its jagged edges, penny-wort smiling from the deep cracks.
No. 5 : Art
And finally but by no means least! A huge part of the unforgettable character of Spoleto is the Art and Cultural scene that very elegantly weaves its way through the town. A bold indication of this can be seen as you first step outside of the train station. Arriving in Spoleto you are greeted with the 18 meter high Teodelapio sculpture by Alexander Calder, a modern day triumphal arc that was made to represent the city. Since 1958, during the month of July, Spoleto host’s the Festival dei Due Mondi, an expansive collection of theatre, dance, music and art. Elsewhere is the town is Palazzo Collicola which is the home to the Galleria d’Arte Moderna, a bright gallery with many rooms that display ceramics, sculpture and painting.
Whether you are looking for a day trip or a longer period, Spoleto has a lot to offer! The Umbrian hills are waiting for you so check out TheTrainLine for your tickets and explore the authentic Italian Borgo of Spoleto.